Anyone with hooded eyes will understand the struggle of applying eye makeup. Whether your eyeliner disappears the second you open your eyes or your carefully blended shadow smudges into the crease by midday, mastering makeup on this particular eye shape can be tricky.
“Hooded eyes are basically a fold of skin that droops over the eye crease and that makes the eyelid appear a bit smaller or completely hidden when the eyes are open,” explains Marco Antonio, makeup artist and Chanel Beauty Ambassador. “For that reason it creates less visible lid space and most of the time can make eye makeup trickier to apply.“
Trickier, but not impossible. With a few strategic tweaks, hooded eyes can look just as open, lifted and luminous as any other shape. Here's how to get it right, every time.
Lifting and light
According to Antonio, the most important thing is to rethink your crease placement. “My go-to technique would be to apply a very good eyeshadow primer and a matte shadow slightly above the natural crease,” he says. “Then I would apply a very thin eyeliner upward to create a lifted effect.”
According to Antonio, curling your lashes is a must too. “Then, add a light shimmer to the inner corner, and finish off by highlighting the brow bone to make the eyes appear more open. I prefer cream highlighters on the brow bone for a natural finish.”
The key is subtle structure rather than heavy contrast. Shifting your shadow just a touch higher than the natural crease tricks the eye into seeing more lid space, while shimmer in the inner corner adds brightness where hooded shapes can sometimes appear shadowed.
The eyeliner equation
If your instinct is to go big and bold with liner, don’t. “Honestly, to me the best trick when it comes to eyeliner for hooded eyes would be to keep the eyeliner as close to the lash line as possible and very, very thin,” says Antonio. “I tend to extend the liner in a sort of a small, upward flick at the outer corner to lift and elongate the eyes. And please stay away from lining the lower lash line.”
That micro flick on the outer corner not only elongates the eye but also prevents your liner from disappearing into the fold (a common frustration for those with hooded eyes). To do so, you’ll need an ultra precise applicator (felt tip nibs tend to offer the most precision), and a totally budgeproof formula (look for waterproof or smudgeproof options).
Crease-proofing your canvas
Even the best makeup will crease if your base isn’t right. “I normally get the best results when I apply a long-wear base to prevent shadow and liner from sliding into the crease,” Antonio notes. “And if you prefer to use cream products, make sure you set them with a light dust of powder (I use the Chanel Poudre Universelle Libre in 10 Light).”
Textures and tones
“For hooded eyes, matte shadows would be my preferred on the case and outer lid to create depth,” says Antonio. “Keep shimmer and satin shades to the centre of the lid or inner corner to create specific areas of brightness, using a thin brush for very precise definition."
Matte textures subtly sculpt without catching the fold, while shimmers placed strategically bring the illusion of openness and light.
Do’s for hooded eyes
- Apply matte eyeshadow
- Keep eyeliner thin
- Line the upper waterline
- Curl the lashes
- Use primer for long wear
- Choose waterproof formulas to prevent creasing
Don'ts for hooded eyes
- Use a thick or heavy eyeliner across the lid
- Apply dark shadows over the lid
- Put shadows directly on the natural fold (it will disappear when eyes are open)
- Skip lash curling
- Overline the lower lash line
Mastering makeup for hooded eyes isn’t about fighting your features. It’s about enhancing them with subtle shifts in technique. With the right prep, placement and know-how, you can open up your eyes (literally and figuratively) to a whole new world of possibilities.
